Deceptive Beauty: BPOM Uncovers Dangerous Cosmetics Masking Toxicity with Trendy Ingredients

Jakarta – The Indonesian Food and Drug Authority (BPOM RI) has issued a stern warning to the public following the discovery of 14 cosmetic products currently circulating in the market that contain hazardous, carcinogenic, and organ-damaging substances. These products, which range from facial toners to nail polish, have been found to masquerade as high-end skincare by utilizing misleading marketing claims—most notably the trendy "DNA Salmon" and "Niacinamide" labels—to lure unsuspecting consumers.

The revelation has sent shockwaves through the beauty industry, highlighting a growing trend of "cosmetic fraud" where manufacturers prioritize immediate, albeit dangerous, results over consumer safety.

The Core Deception: Selling Poison as Premium Skincare

The investigation, conducted throughout the second quarter of 2026, revealed a disturbing pattern: manufacturers are exploiting the public’s desire for viral beauty trends. Products such as AF Ayuskin ID Night Cream Booster with DNA Salmon were marketed as innovative treatments leveraging the regenerative properties of salmon DNA. In reality, laboratory testing by BPOM identified a toxic cocktail of four restricted substances: retinoic acid, hydroquinone, clobetasol propionate, and mometasone furoate.

Similarly, the RNC WBEAUTY Body Lotion Whitening Booster, which heavily marketed its "10x Niacinamide" formula for skin brightening, was found to contain high levels of mercury. This systemic deception allows dangerous products to reach the hands of consumers who believe they are purchasing high-quality, scientifically backed skincare.

Understanding the Toxins: Why These Ingredients are Banned

The substances identified by BPOM are strictly prohibited in cosmetic formulations due to their severe, often irreversible, health consequences. The dangers associated with these ingredients are not merely theoretical; they are well-documented medical risks.

1. Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)

While sometimes used in medically supervised dermatology, retinoic acid is strictly forbidden in over-the-counter cosmetics. Its improper use can lead to severe skin irritation, burning sensations, and skin peeling. Most critically, it is a known teratogen, meaning it can cause severe birth defects and developmental issues if used by pregnant women.

2. Hydroquinone

Often used illegally to bleach skin rapidly, hydroquinone carries the risk of ochronosis—a condition where the skin develops permanent blue-black discoloration. It is also linked to ocular complications, including the discoloration of the cornea and nail beds, and can induce paradoxical hyperpigmentation.

3. Corticosteroids (Clobetasol Propionate & Mometasone Furoate)

These potent anti-inflammatory drugs are often hidden in "whitening" creams to mask the irritation caused by other toxic ingredients. Prolonged use leads to skin atrophy (thinning of the skin), permanent eczema, and systemic absorption that can disrupt the body’s endocrine system.

4. Mercury

Perhaps the most dangerous element found, mercury is a heavy metal that accumulates in the body. Beyond causing permanent dark spots and irritation, it is toxic to the nervous system and is a leading cause of renal (kidney) failure.

5. Red K10 Colorant

Used illegally to give products a vibrant appearance, this synthetic dye is a known carcinogen. It has been linked to liver damage and the development of various forms of cancer.

Chronology of the BPOM Investigation

The discovery follows a rigorous surveillance program conducted by the BPOM during the second quarter of 2026.

Initial Surveillance (April 2026): BPOM’s intelligence unit began monitoring social media marketplaces and e-commerce platforms after an uptick in reports regarding "instant whitening" products that caused sudden, severe skin reactions among users.
Sampling and Laboratory Analysis (May 2026): Field officers conducted random sampling of products labeled with trending buzzwords like "DNA Salmon," "Glutathione Injection," and "10x Niacinamide." These samples were sent to the national laboratory for toxicological screening.
Identification of Fraud (June 2026): The lab results confirmed that the formulations contained prohibited chemicals. The discrepancy between the ingredient list on the packaging and the chemical composition was documented as a violation of the Consumer Protection Act and Health Regulations.
Public Announcement (July 2026): BPOM released the official list of the 14 banned products, ordering an immediate recall and warning the public to stop using them immediately.

Supporting Data: The Rising Tide of "Instant" Beauty

The prevalence of these products is fueled by the rise of "racun skincare" (skincare recommendations) on social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram. Influencers, often without medical credentials, promote products that provide visible results in as little as seven days.

Data from the BPOM report suggests that these products often originate from small-scale "home industries" (home-made) that operate without proper permits (Tanpa Izin Edar/TIE). These manufacturers bypass the safety assessment process—which involves checking for stability, toxicity, and microbial contamination—entirely. By the time a consumer realizes they are experiencing skin damage, the seller has often rebranded or shuttered their online store.

Official Responses and Regulatory Action

In response to the crisis, BPOM has initiated several enforcement actions:

Market Cleansing: BPOM has coordinated with the Ministry of Communication and Informatics (Kominfo) to take down digital advertisements and e-commerce links associated with the 14 identified products.
Criminal Prosecution: Manufacturers found to be deliberately adding prohibited substances face criminal charges under the Health Law, which carries heavy fines and potential imprisonment.
Public Awareness Campaigns: BPOM is launching a "Check Your Packaging" (Cek KLIK) campaign, urging consumers to verify the authenticity of their products via the official BPOM mobile application or website.

"The public must stop being seduced by promises of instant beauty," a BPOM representative stated during the press conference. "True skincare is a process. If a product claims to change your skin tone in days, it is almost certainly doing so by damaging your skin’s barrier with toxic chemicals."

Long-term Implications: A Public Health Crisis

The implications of this scandal extend beyond mere skin irritation. The widespread use of mercury and corticosteroids in the Indonesian market represents a significant public health burden.

The Financial and Health Burden

When a consumer suffers from kidney failure due to mercury poisoning or irreversible skin thinning from steroid abuse, the cost of medical treatment far outweighs the cost of the cheap cosmetic that caused the problem. Furthermore, the psychological impact of permanent skin damage—such as ochronosis or scarring—can be devastating for victims.

Strengthening Regulatory Oversight

This incident highlights the need for stronger oversight of the "reseller" culture in Indonesia. Currently, thousands of individuals act as third-party sellers for unregulated beauty brands. While the primary responsibility lies with the manufacturer, the lack of accountability among sellers allows these products to penetrate deep into rural areas where access to dermatological care is limited.

Expert Recommendations: How to Protect Yourself

Dermatologists and health experts advise the public to adopt the following practices:

Verify the BPOM Number: Every legal cosmetic product must have a registration number (e.g., NA12345678901). You can check this number in real-time on the official BPOM website.
Be Skeptical of "Miracles": Avoid products that promise instant whitening, rapid acne clearing, or "glowing" skin within a few days. Science does not support such rapid physiological changes without harmful interference.
Check the Ingredients: Learn to read labels. If the packaging lacks a full ingredient list, or if the list is printed on a separate sticker rather than the original packaging, treat it with extreme suspicion.
Consult a Professional: If you have used a product and experienced burning, redness, or unexpected dark spots, discontinue use immediately and consult a board-certified dermatologist.

As the authorities continue their sweep of the market, the incident serves as a grim reminder that in the beauty industry, transparency is the ultimate safety measure. The allure of DNA Salmon or high-concentration serums should never come at the cost of one’s long-term health. Consumers are encouraged to prioritize safety over speed and to remain vigilant against the deceptive marketing tactics that continue to endanger the public.